檳榔西施

快活大麻仙

《繼兄弟》是製片祖阿巴杜繼《搞出人命》（Knocked Up）、《超級壞蛋》等以延遲成長為題材的系列中最新的一部。言猶在耳，這好萊塢最當時得令的母豬又一部新作《黃梨快車》（Pineapple Express）呱呱落地了。
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導演是憑《喬治華盛頓》成名的大衛高登格林，頗有才華，但他接下來的《天下女孩》（All The Real Girls》及《暗流》（Undertow）都賠得雞毛鴨血。《黃梨快車》中他只是僱傭兵，作者風格派不上用場，但至少票房打了勝仗，不會從此被人誤為瘟神。

《黃梨快車》是近年描繪男性友誼而又不帶斷袖嫌疑最好的片子。

《黃 梨快車》片名是指一個特殊的大麻品種，根據角色形容，“快活一如進入上帝的陰戶。”影片靈感取自《真的浪漫》（True Romance）中畢彼特飾演的大麻仙角色。片中要角都是大麻仙。憑《搞出人命》走紅的謝羅傑飾演阿達，一個法律文件遞送員，一日他在工作前先去探訪他的 毒販好友索爾（占士法蘭可飾），后者向他推荐“黃梨快車”，兩人邊吞雲吐霧，邊暢談時，阿達向索爾透露他要遞送文件的收件人時發現，原來索爾也認識，這是 他的生產商。阿達后來按址蒞訪時，卻不巧目擊這生產商正在殺人，一名女警也幫上一手。他驚嚇之余立刻開溜，卻不幸在現場留下煙蒂，生產商吸一口，就知道是 《黃梨快車》。

他要找出零售商還不容易？阿達也知道事態嚴重，早與索爾漏夜逃亡。

劇情聽來真是陳腔濫調，影片還向影史眾多老友記電影，如《藍調兄弟》及《午夜狂奔》等致敬，不乏飛車追逐及直搗黃龍的例牌場面，但戲肉不在此，而在兩個主角乘搭“黃梨快車”途中半迷糊狀態的精彩談話。

《蜘蛛俠》中飾演憤世嫉俗反派的占士法蘭可，這回豁出去了，瘋癲得令人另眼相看。《黃梨快車》是近年描繪男性友誼而又不帶斷袖嫌疑最好的片子，兩人享受共處的時光，這是願意以身相許的女朋友也比不上的。

我認為《繼兄弟》和《黃梨快車》都有成為儀式電影的潛質，但這說不了準的，就交給時間吧。

人生好浪費 ─ 閱讀《猜火車》

文／紀大偉　
書名：猜火車
作者：厄文．威爾許
譯者：但唐謨
出版：商周 2008 / 08


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在討論《猜火車》小說之前，必須先提及一九九六年的改編電影──畢竟許多人先看了電影版才接觸原著小說。《猜火車》成為另類經典電影（cult movie）；說它是另類經典，是因為它雖然沒有擁抱主流社會的價值觀，卻不斷吸引各地（含台灣在內）的死忠影迷。在死忠影迷的心中，這種另類經典比好萊塢電影更值得Orz祟拜（cult就是祟拜之意）。片中「男主角在片中爬進酒吧骯髒馬桶，然後在水肥池裡尋找二粒禁藥」的驚奇畫面讓人津津樂道，而片中幾個年輕男女寧可「浪費」青春也要和多種禁藥生死糾纏的生活也讓不少觀眾難忘。挑釁主流價值觀的畫面，以大特寫的方式（表示要觀眾瞪大眼睛去看），貫穿全片：注射藥物的過程，像是宗教儀式一樣虔誠；眾人物嗑藥之後，爽得軟趴趴倒地上爬不起來。從主流價值觀來看，這些角色的人生是浪費的：他們嗑藥之後，軟趴趴地連性事都辦不成，更別說去當上班族賺錢了。這部電影著名的廣告詞「choose life」（選擇生命），並不是指自由自在地選擇任何一種生命，而是指選擇所謂「值得」的生命（有錢買車買房的上流生活）──「choose life」的反面，並非選擇死亡，而是指選擇所謂「不值得」的生命（如，嗑藥的人生）。選擇人生（選擇主流的人生）vs. 選擇浪費（選擇非主流／反主流的人生），是穿透全片的辯證。

《猜火車》電影版和原著小說，卻是兩回事。容我提醒讀者，《猜火車》的電影版和小說版各有可觀之處。看了電影版而沒看小說原著，或是因為沒看電影版所以不敢看小說原著，都很可惜。電影版雖然精彩，但是它兩個小時的長度實在沒有辦法呈現原著小說長達三百五十頁的複雜面貌。另外，電影版拍成節奏明快的（黑色）喜劇，讓各國年輕觀眾看得很爽，但小說原著卻絕不是喜劇，提供給讀者的痛感多於快感。痛感的來源之一，在於父母。電影版幾乎沒有呈現出主要角色的父母（父母角色偶爾出現，但戲份極有限），基本上主要角色不必去向父母解釋自己是否浪費了生命；然而小說版之中幾乎每個角色都活在父母的陰影下，而且他們主要的難題就在於滿足父母的期望（是不是對不起父母？我是歹子嗎？）。電影版之中的父母極少，而且具有喜感；小說版之中的父母卻極多，一點喜感也沒有。正因如此，小說版對於台灣讀者來說似曾相識──如何和父母的陰影纏鬥，正是台灣讀者熟悉的修行。

小說中的痛，變成電影中的爽。回頭想想，「猜火車」這個標題究竟是什麼意思？電影版並沒有提出清楚的說法。或許有些影迷認為，「猜火車」這個行為意味「年少輕狂」的生活。然而小說原著中，「猜火車」這個動作卻幾乎是「年少輕狂」的反面。這個動作的意義藏在書中暗處──我不說「猜火車」意味什麼，只能請讀者自行在書中摸索。

《猜火車》電影版可能讓觀眾忘記該片的蘇格蘭背景，可是原著小說不會讓讀者忘記該書的風土。呈現蘇格蘭特色的主要工具，是語言文字；在語言文字表現上，電影版溫和，而小說版激烈（畢竟小說全靠語言文字表現，不像電影以視覺為主力）。小說版的文字比電影版更猛。《猜火車》原著小說很吊詭，一方面是英文小說，另一方面卻又不是。打開《猜火車》原著，讀者會發現此書的英文根本看不得，因為絕大多數用字都是英英字典查不到的。這部將近三百五十頁的英文小說，只有寥寥幾頁使用「正常」英文。在讀此書時，要進行兩種翻譯：一，這部小說不能光用眼睛看，還要用嘴巴讀。如，書中的「thegither」其實是「together」 。讀者要讀出聲，才可以用自己的發音器官去「體」驗書中人物的肉身感覺。這是口譯。二，有些字就算讀出聲了也難以辨認，因為那些字是蘇格蘭俚語或是嗑藥圈子的黑話，就算翻遍英英大字典也查不到。於是，（次）文化的翻譯也是必要的。

這樣的小說，是有用的，還是沒有用的呢？為了讓這部小說變得比較有用（或，為了避免這部小說在美國被人浪費掉），當《猜火車》在美國上市時，書商特別在書末加上五頁詞彙對照表（如，書中的「bairn」就是美國的「baby」，「bevvy」就是「drink」），以便讓美國讀者看懂此書；不過，書商的「好心」卻引起爭議。有人認為《猜火車》不該向主流英文妥協；加添了這幾頁詞彙對照表，就破壞了《猜火車》的非主流／反主流精神。不過，也有人認為這幾頁詞彙對照表的幫助，並不是太多，而是太少──因為光靠這幾頁詞彙對照表，主流讀者還是覺得此書的英文玄奧難懂。非主流語言寫作是兩面刃，有缺點也有強處。明顯缺點是不易讓讀者一下就看懂（於是，就被認為是沒有用的語言），但長遠優點是讓語言變得更豐富活潑（結果，也變成極有用的語言）──事實上，對於當前英文俚語最有影響力的文學作品之一就是《猜火車》。也因此，在當今翻譯學研究、國族主義研究，以及後殖民研究的國際學者書單中，《猜火車》這部小說是一個基本的文本。而在台灣情境中，非主流的漢文寫作也讓人懷疑其用處何在：認同本土化運動的人可能認為非主流漢文極有用，不是在浪費時間；可是，不認同本土化運動的人卻可能認為這種非主流漢文一點用也沒有，只是在浪費時間。在討論非主流漢文的價值（有用／沒用）時，不妨參考《猜火車》原著小說的境遇。

人生好浪費，浪費人生好？──這種存在主義式的疑問，在小說的語言表演，角色刻畫，情節鋪陳種種層面，都一次又一次體現。在小說之中不斷出現的幾種象徵，也和浪費／不浪費有關。最明顯的象徵就是嬰兒（嬰兒也在電影版出現，但小說版比電影版更耽迷嬰兒）。生出嬰兒，究竟是善用了人生（年輕父母身為有用的生產者），還是浪費了人生（年輕父母身為沒用的消費者，好像刷卡一樣不小心刷出一個嬰兒）？尢其當父母是失業又嗑藥的年輕人時，嬰兒未必帶來喜悅，反而激發恐懼──父母一看見嬰兒，就想起自己毫無價值的人生。和嬰兒相比，比較不明顯卻可能更值得玩味的價值象徵，是足球。

英國人（含蘇格蘭人在內）對於足球的痴迷舉世聞名，「曼聯」（位在曼徹斯特的著名球隊）在書中不時浮現，足球在書中主要人物身上都留下痕跡──注意，在這本重男輕女的小說中，男性角色都在乎足球，女性角色卻都和足球無關。在書中角色還是學生的時候，他們下場踢足球，其中有人還幾乎成為足球明星──他們是足球球藝的生產者，足球讓他們覺得自己是有用的人；然而，當這批人進入社會之後，他們卻只能透過電視極被動地看球（他們不在足球場的草地上，也不在足球場的觀眾席上，而在電視機前──也就是說，他們和自己的沒出息老爸一樣，都只看電視球賽）──他們成為足球球藝的被動消費者，他們一看見任何一顆足球就聯想起自己浪費的青春。他們的「身份認同」也建立在足球上面。任何（男）人都必須去支持一支足球隊，不然就沒有「歸屬感」。這種建立在足球上的認同感，在小說版之中具有重量級的份量，幾乎和國族認同一樣重要──可是，在電影版中卻幾乎隱形。在《猜火車》小說的世界裡，人與人互動不但要在乎你的「省籍」（蘇格蘭人、英格蘭人，還是愛爾蘭人？），要在乎你是愛丁堡城內還是城外的人，還要在乎你是哪一支球隊的後援隊會員──在每一個關卡，你一旦選錯邊，就要吃苦頭了。足球從消費社會的上游（生產者的位置）到下游（消費者的位置）的滾動過程，對應了小說人物的向下爬行。

要如何走出「選擇生活」和「選擇浪費」的輪迴？《猜火車》並沒有提出明確的答案。或者該說，《猜火車》選擇將希望寄托在未來──這正是卡奴的心理。明天會更好，明天就是最好的提款機。《猜火車》原作者在《猜火車》叫好叫座之後，一直有意循環使用（recycle，又是一個在乎有用／不有用的字）《猜火車》之中的小說人物。近年他終於出版了《猜火車》的續集《春宮電影》（Porno；中文版也將在台灣上市），由《猜火車》原班人馬（懶蛋、卑比、變態男等人）擔任小說人物。今天過得不好也沒關係，反正有未來可以當靠山──這種向前看（向錢看？）的信用卡式邏輯，就是建立在今日沒出息／明天有出息的意識型態上。輪迴如同循環信用，沒有人走得出來，反而不斷有人想要進去。

（本文摘自該書序文／商周出版提供）

Marijuana strains description

Description Of Marijuana Strains

A note about descriptions:

Yield Size is based on comparison of all strains and is rated as small, average, large, very large, etc. Harvest time is based on previous experience and may differ from the times stated depending on light quantity, amount of nutrients, weather, and other conditions. Learn how to recognize when a plant is ready to be harvested. Not recommended outdoors means that unless you are growing marijuana fairly close to the equator (very long grow season) your crop will probably not have time to fully mature before cold weather kills the plants.
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AFGHANI - A pure variety, never hybridized, imported from Afghanistan, grown in Holland. Very broad leaves, 100% Indica. Heavy buds with lots of resin. Some plants turn purple at harvest time. Rather high flower to leaf ratio. Taste: heavy, almost medicinal. Stone: very strong, physical, practically narcotic. Yield Size: (not available). Harvest Indoors: 8-9 weeks after flower forcing. Harvest Outdoors: 1st week of November.

AFGHANI #1 - The Afghani part is a very short Christmas tree-like plant, 100% Indica, very resinous and very consistent. The F1-cross with Skunk #1 gives the variety a bigger yield and better taste. Taste: (not available). Stone: very good, up high. Yield Size: large. Harvest Indoors: 8-9 weeks after flower forcing. Harvest Outdoors: 1st week of November.

AK-47 (SPECIAL-K) - A 65% Sativa - 35% Indica hybrid that produces a quick stone with a long lasting cerebral high. Tall with large girth and giant calyxes it does best indoors unless you are near the equator. The aroma is spicy with a slight sandalwood taste. This can satisfy any connoisseurs' taste. Taste: flowery and sweet. Stone: strong, long lasting. Yield Size: average. Harvest Indoors: 8-10 weeks after flower forcing. Harvest Outdoors: not recommended outdoors.

AMERICANO - 100% Indica bred by British Columbians for their American customers. Produces nice crystallized tight buds with a minimum of red hairs in a short amount of time. Taste: skunky. Stone: sleepy. Yield Size: average. Harvest Indoors: 6-8 weeks after flower forcing. Harvest Outdoors: not recommended outdoors.

AMSTERDAM FLAME - 100% Indica with a high thc content potential. Taste: fruity. Stone: strong and sleepy. Yield Size: average. Harvest Indoors: 7-8 weeks after flower forcing. Harvest Outdoors: not recommended outdoors.

AMSTEL GOLD - Amstel Gold is an Indica variety developed in California in the seventies and has been grown outdoors in Holland since 1980. Smokes soft with a citrus like aroma and has a good high. Easy to grow, grows with long compact resinous buds. One of the best green outdoor varieties collection. Specifications: ~ Flower: 6 weeks ~ Harvest: end of Sept., 1st week of Oct.

B-52 - A truly superior skunk selection. Grows with heavy buds. Top variety for commercial skunk grower. As with other Skunks, superior sweet taste and aroma, the well known Sativa influence is detected in its high. Super fast for a skunky strain. Specifications: ~ Flower: 7 weeks ~ Harvest: end of Oct., beginning of Nov.

BAZOOKA - An excellent green variety. Not much known about this strain but the breeder did mention Bubblegum. Good results indoors and out. Specifications: (indoors) ~ Flower: 55-60 days ~ Height: 5-6' ~ Yield: Above Average (outdoors) ~ Plant: Jun. 1st ~ Finish: Sept. 15th ~ Height: 6' ~ Yield: Above Average

BIG BUD - Winner of the Cannabis Cup in 1989. Mostly Indica. All plants have guaranteed high yields, 25% has something special to it. Usually the lower branches collapse under the weight of the buds. Cash cropper's delight. Specifications: ~ Flower: 7.5-8.5 weeks

CK DOMINA - An Indica with large bracts and sticky resins. Compact plant. Specifications: ~ Flower: 50 days

BLACK JACK - Black Domina crossed with Jack Herrer. Produced by two of the most potent and premium strains and created a plant unlike any other. A super potent Indica this plant will be very resinous and sticky. This strain will more than satisfy the pickiest of connoisseurs. The name should say it all for the potency of Black Jack. Specifications: (indoors) ~ Flower: 55-60 days ~ Height: 130-150cm ~ Yield: 90-125 gr/sq M

BLUE VELVET - Blue Velvet was developed from genetics unique to Europe. Not only Blue Velvet, but also Blueberry and Flo are developed from these new genetics. These varieties are of the highest thinkable quality. An Indica/Sativa cross (50%,50%) with trademark fox tail buds. The leaves and buds exhibit several hues including reds and lavenders, usually on the underside of the leaves. The buds have very large calyxes often with long dark stripes showing. The mature plant produces a fruity and floral mix of aroma and taste that is very sweet. This produces a very active cerebral high. Specifications: ~ Flower: 6-7 weeks ~ Harvest: 2nd to 3rd week of Oct.

BLUEBERRY - Blueberry is a mostly Indica (80% Indica, 20% Sativa) strain, that dates to the late 1970's. A large producer under optimum conditions. A dense and stout plant with red, purple and finally blue hues that usually cure to a lavender blue. The finished product has a very fruity aroma and taste of blueberry. It produces a notable and pleasantly euphoric high of the highest quality and is very long lasting. Medium to large calyxes.Blueberry has a long shelf life and stores well over a long period of time. Specifications: ~ Flowering: 45-55 days ~ Height: 70-100 cm

BUBBLE GUM - 1995 2nd place winner, with little details about the strains that produces it. Extremely resinous with an uplifting high.

BUDDHA - Another favorite from our collection, developed by our breeders in 1996. A female Oasis/Shiva/Haze crossed with a male Oasis/Shiva/Skunk. The talk of the town in Amsterdam in 1996. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8 weeks ~ Harvest: end of Oct.

CALIFORNIA ORANGE - A stabilized hybrid, inbred since 1980. Can be extremely resinous, including the leaves. 50% Sativa, 50% Indica. Some plants have a pronounced citrus aroma and flavor. Very strong, fairly clear high. Yields are slightly above average. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8-10 weeks ~ Harvest: 1st week of Nov.

CHITRAL - This variety is a hybrid of Chitral and Skunk, Chitral being the variety of the famous Chitral-hash of the seventies. Hybridized with Skunk, the variety tends to be even stronger. Good harvest, nice herbal taste and strong physical high. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8 weeks ~ Harvest: 3rd week of Oct.

CHRONIC - Chronic is the plant to grow when yield and quality are top concerns. Mostly an Indica this plant can produce up to 600 grams per m2 while not compromising quality. Chronic has a strong high with a heavy resin content. Smokers that know and grow choose this plant for both appearance and it's sweet scent. Winner of 3rd place hydro division in the 1994 High Times Cannabis Cup, this is chronically the best choice for growers that are tired of loosing quality when gaining yield. Indica/Sativa bred with powerful effect and sweet smell in mind. Quality without compromise, serious flower power! Specifications: ~ Flower: 7-8 weeks

DURBAN POISON - Imported from South Africa, produced in Holland. Exclusively inbred, never hybridized, 100% Sativa. Large long bud leaves, buds are also large and long with lots of resin. A sweet licorice or anise flavor. Up high similar to Thai. High yields. Well suited for out crossing with late bloomers to produce earlier flowering. Also does very well under artificial light. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8-9 weeks ~ Harvest: end of Sept.

DURBAN POISON X MIGHTY MIGHT - Better outdoors than Durban alone, yet a better yield than Mighty Might alone. A classic. Specifications: (indoors) ~ Flower: 60-65 days ~ Height: 110-140 cm ~ Yield: 300-325 gr/sq M (outdoors) ~ Plant: Jun. 1st ~ Finish: Sept. 8-15th ~ Height: 5-6' ~ Yield: 3-4 oz

EARLY BUD - Fast flowering, big buds. Fresh citrus like taste, nice high. Very similar to early girl. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8 weeks ~ Harvest: Sept.

EARLY GIRL - This is a mostly Indica variety, one of the earliest in our outdoor collection. Very potent, medium yield, with a hashy taste and aroma. These compact plants will tend to grow to one main stem. An ideal choice for your balcony.

EARLY PEARL - Mostly Sativa with excellent potency. Sweet, resinous and mold resistant. A popular outdoor variety.

EARLY SKUNK - A cross between Skunk #1 and Early Pearl. Finishes two weeks earlier than Skunk #1 outdoors. Sweet smell, smooth high, mold resistant and a good yielder.

ECLIPSE - A new variety, mostly Indica with a sweet taste. Somewhat a version of the bubble gum/bubble berry famous by American clients. This is one for the young and the young at heart. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8-10 weeks

EUFORIA - Developed by our breeders in 1996. A very fine Skunk selection, very commercial, very heavy bloom, bumper harvest, the famous Skunk high. Taste is not as sweet as our other Skunk selections but it is one of our favorites. Good for greenhouse as well. Specifications: ~ Flower: 7 weeks ~ Harvest: end of Oct., beginning of Nov.

FLO - Original Flo is a Sativa/Indica cross (60% Sativa, 40% Indica) with very Sativa phenotypic characteristics that also matures very early. The large, tight, spear shaped buds are made up of small, densely packed purple calyxes. The plants are taller and like to branch out. Indoors the buds are fully mature by the end of their sixth week. Outdoors the plant is a super producer when multi-harvested over a period of time. The first buds are ripe around the third week of September. About every ten days after that, new buds form and can be harvested through the end of November, if the plant can be kept alive that long. Therefore, Flo is ideal for greenhouse production. The motivational high produced by the Flo is quite unique, the flavor is like Nepalese Temple Hash. A most pleasant and enjoyable experience. Specifications: ~ Flower: 6-7 weeks ~ Harvest: 3rd or 4th week of Sept.

FOURWAY #1 - Four Way #1 is a hybrid of 4 different strains, 25% Indica, 25% Ruderalis, 25% Northern Light, and 25% Skunk #1. As a whole the Four Way #1 cross has the Indica appearance. The plants are strong and easy to grow. Some of the plants give very high yields, so select a clone. The plants have a minimum amount of leaves and grow well developed buds. A very good smoke in taste and high. Not susceptible to spider mites.

GREAT WHITE SHARK - A cross between a Super Skunk and a White Widow. Thick, dense crystallized colas are sticky and solid, just like the original parents. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8 weeks.

GREEN SPIRIRT - Green Spirit is a hybrid of Big Bud and Skunk #1. Was developed because Big Bud itself is not a very consistent strain, with very big differences among individual plants. By crossing Big Bud and Skunk #1, Green Spirit became quite homogeneous. Good results under artificial lights. Clear and strong high. The plants have an explosive flowering trait and are extremely resinous. Very high yield. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8-9 weeks ~ Harvest: 1st week of Nov.

HAWAIIAN/SKUNK - Mostly Indica (F1 hybrid) with exceptionally broad leaves. Lots of resin on leaves as well as flowers, with a musky hash like aroma. Strong physical high. Yields are above average. Short rounded plants. Specifications: ~ Flower: 9-12 weeks ~ Harvest: end of Oct.

HAZE - 100% Sativa, it's a hard plant to grow, but famous for it's special qualities. A classic Sativa High. Good results for those who do not mind to wait a little longer. The plant that sets the standard for all Sativa's. Was one of the prize winning selection for Homegrown Fantaseeds in the Cannabis Cup '97. Specifications: ~ Flower: 10-13 weeks

HAZE SKUNK - Originally Haze is a pure Sativa strain. It is crossed with Skunk #1 to get a bigger yield, a softer taste and a shorter flowering period. Truly superior sweet taste. The high is incredibly clear and up energy. Specifications: ~ Flower: 10-12 weeks ~ Harvest: end of Dec.

HEMPSTAR - Developed as a tribute to all the Hempsters and the International Hemp Movement. A three way cross between Skunk, Oasis and Haze, it is the combination of the three major varieties. This strain has an enormous potency and sticky Sativa high. The taste is very mild. Specifications: ~ Flower: 9-12 weeks ~ Harvest: end of Nov.

HIMALAYAN GOLD - A cross between Himalaya hybrid and South India. A blend of Indicas and Sativas. Strong yellow hairs that are long and flat. Misty crystal structure set on pale green bud. Compact form with great size colas. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8-10 weeks.

HINDU KUSH - Pure Indica, one of the most constant kind. Best start for anyone who wants to grow his own Indica. Hash like taste, large firm buds, above average yield. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8 weeks

HOLLANDS HOPE - One of the first Dutch Outdoor strains, grown in Holland since the early eighties. A heavy Indica variety with a knock-out high. Very mold resistant. Highly recommended. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8 weeks ~ Harvest: end of Sept., 1st week of Oct.

HYPNO - Hypno is a 100% Indica strain. Developed 1997 from new Californian and Afghani genetics. Some of the plants turn red/purple. Sweet aroma. A strain with high expectations. Good yield and mold resistant. Specifications: ~ Flower: 7-8 weeks ~ Harvest: end of Sept., 1st week of Oct.

JACK HERER - Combining three of the strongest secret varieties kept by Sensi resulted in this multiple hybrid of many years of selective breeding. Highly resinous.

PK2 - It's the little sister of the White Widow Bio, short plant ideal for people with little space. Very soft taste and decent high. Grown very much by local growers, a perfect compromise between quality and yield. Strongly favored by Hydro growers. Very good yield. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8 weeks

KALI MIST - Serious smokers know, pure Sativa is a smooth smoking experience not soon forgotten. Kali is a superb Sativa with a high calyx-to-leaf ratio, and long running tops that produce full, fluffy buds. Expect this goddess to produce a high resin content with spiral buds that carry an extremely spicy scent. Kali Mist won the 1st Place Cannabis Cup in High Times 1995 hydro competition, and is the personal stash for expert gardeners! Specifications: ~ Flower: 9-10 weeks

KC 33 - Dutch variety, crossbred with a Thai and Brazilian weed, special for the outdoor grow, but inside also a number one. A favorite outdoors variety right through Europe. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8 weeks, 8-10 outdoors ~ Harvest: Sept.

KERALA\SKUNK - This Southern Indian variety is crossed with Skunk #1 (F1 hybrid). As a whole the plants have a Sativa appearance (87.5% Sativa, 12.5% Indica). The buds have a sweet exotic smell and taste and a very clear medium strong high. Specifications: ~ Flower: 10-11 weeks ~ Harvest: 1st week of Oct.

KUSH - A heavy budding plant that produces crystals galore. Good rich smoke, excellent indoors and outdoors. Clones very easily. Specifications: (indoors) ~ Flower: 60-70 days ~ Height: 110-150 cm ~ Yield: 300-325 gr/sq M (outdoors) ~ Plant: Jun. 1st ~ Finish: Oct. 1st ~ Height: 5-6' ~ Yield: 2-4 oz ~

KUSH X MIGHTY MIGHT - Heavy budding and lots of crystals makes up this plant, larger colas than Kush alone. Smooth smoke and excellent high. Easy to grow, and great for both indoors and outdoors. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8-10 weeks ~ Height: 4-5'

LAMBSBREAD\SKUNK - The famous Jamaican Lambsbread crossed with Skunk #1 (F1 hybrid). A very special taste and high. Grows with long slim buds, has a medium yield and is almost 100% Sativa. Specifications: ~ Flower: 9-11 weeks ~ Harvest: 1st half of Nov. in greenhouse

LEDA UNO - This variety is a sativa/indica cross (a hybrid of a KC 33 male and a Brazilian female). A superior plant with lemon like aroma. Specifications: ~ Flower: 6-9 weeks ~ Harvest: end of September

MANGO - Mango is a 100% Indica variety, a F-1 hybrid of KC-33 and Afghani. High yields and some plants are very early. Specifications: ~ Flower: 6-7 weeks ~ Harvest: end of Sept., 1st week of Oct.

MASTER KUSH - A F1 cross between two different Hindu-kush strains. Yield is high. Excellent taste and strong high. One of our favorites.

MAZAR - This is an upgraded selection of the former valued Afghan/Skunk. A 1997 improvement was made on its yield. The taste is softer than before. The Afghani (Mazar-i-Shariff) part is a very short christmas tree like plant, 100% Indica and very resinous. The F1-cross with Skunk #1 gives the variety a bigger yield and better taste. Very good up high. As both parents are very consistent, the offspring is very consistent too. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8-9 weeks ~ Harvest: 1st week of Nov.

MIGHTY MIGHT - From the Lequiti Island in B.C. Seeds take up to 14 days to germinate. Huge cola! Specifications: ~ Plant: Jun. 1st ~ Finish: Oct. 1st ~ Height: 4-6' ~ Yield: 3-4 oz

MISTY - Sister of White Widow. Short, bushy plant yielding a high THC content. Harvest time is based on previous experience and may differ from the times stated depending on light quantity, amount of nutrients, weather, and other conditions. Learn how to recognize when a plant is ready to be harvested. Not recommended outdoors means that unless you are growing marijuana fairly close to the equator (very long grow season) your crop will probably not have time to fully mature before cold weather kills the plants.

NIAGARA - A mostly sativa (75%) strain developed by Dr. Greenthumb in Ontario. A cross of Afghan and Mexican seeds produced this beautiful, early finishing, mold resistant variety that can be grown with equally good results indoors (using hydro or soil) and outdoors (as far north as Ottawa/Montreal). A recommended seed for any grower. Taste: hashy. Stone: very good, energetic high. Yield Size: average. Harvest Indoors: 6-8 weeks after flower forcing. Harvest Outdoors: Middle of October.

NIAGRA X SHIVA - A mostly sativa strain, early finish, sweet taste, mold resistant, high flower to leaf ratio, soaring high and produce large yield.

NIGHT QUEEN - A 1197 upgraded strain. Very early flowering, very productive, a Sativa/Indica cross. Big fat buds. The aroma is sweet, Sativa high. Specifications: ~ Flower: 6-8 weeks ~ Harvest: end of Sept., 1st week of Oct.

NORTHERN BERRY - Blueberry crossed with Northern Lights #5. A combination only a stoned mind could think of. Specifications: ~ Flower: 55-65 days ~ Height: 100-120 cm ~ Yield: 250-300 gr/sq M

NORTHERN LIGHTS - A pure Indica, won the Cannabis Cup in '88, '89, '90. Much used for cross breeding for it's strong and big buds. Famous throughout the world, everyone has heard of N.L. Sweet taste and very potent stone. Specifications: ~ Flower: 7-8 weeks

NORTHERN LIGHTS X SHIVA - Strong sweet weed, much THC, with big buds and few leaves. Improvement on, and has a stronger taste than pure Northern Light. This is the #1 in it's kind. Best for inside cultivation.

NORTHERN LIGHTS #1 - Developed in Seattle, perfected in Holland, Northern Lights has become the State of the Art indoor plant. A must! Specifications: ~ Flower: 45-50 days ~ Height: 100-125 cm ~ Yield: 300-325 gr/sq M

NORTHERN LIGHTS #5 - This state of the art Indica is the result of over 20 years of select in breeding. Bred for vigorous growth, high yield, and superb high. A must for growers who prefer short bushy plants. The buds have an extremely frosted, resinous appearance and the yield is high. Specifications: ~ Flower: 55-65 days ~ Height: 2-3'

NORTHERN LIGHTS #5 X HAZE - An extremely potent plant with a great Sativa high. In the 1994 harvest festival this variety was miles ahead of its competitors. The high yields compensate for the slightly longer flowering period. Hybrid vigour provides for lush growth, heavy bud formation and abundant resin. A true champion!

OASIS - One of the most popular varieties, Oasis is our Northern Lights #2 selection. A very strong plant, almost spider mite resistant. Good yield, excellent taste and excellent high. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8-9 weeks ~ Harvest: 1st week of Nov.

ORANGE BUD - A 100% Skunk selection, grows with thick hard buds and orange pistils. A very appreciated variety. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8 weeks ~ Harvest: end of Oct. Original Misty A truly beautiful plant misted all over with bulging THC glands. A good producer in terms of yield, fat donkey dick tops, combined with prize winning quality, gourmet taste and a sweet aroma. This plant has it all. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8-9 weeks

POWER PLANT - Power Plant (mostly Sativa) was developed in 1997 from new South African genetics. This strain has been inbred only, never hybridized. Very rich in THC. It is a strain with an enormous grow potential. Indoor as well as in a greenhouse the plants have an enormous yield. Indoors flowering starts already one week after turning back the light cycle to 12 hours. Outdoor flowering starts late, but the plants ripen very fast. This variety is very uniform. Strong up high, very soft smoke. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8 weeks ~ Harvest: 2nd week of Oct.

PURPLE #1 - A strong plant (50% Indica, 50% Sativa), easy to grow. Purple Afghan seeds have been crossed in Holland with Indica and Sativa varieties since 1983. The plants are fully adapted to the Dutch climate and have a respectable yield. This variety has calyxes that turn purple, starting at the beginning of flowering. Up to 90% of the plants turn purple. Has rough, but subtle aroma and a very good high. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8 weeks ~ Harvest: 2nd half of Sept., 1st week of Oct.

PURPLE HAZE - Produce from Mexican, Colombian, South Indian and Thai variety. Incredible resin development. Produces a clear energetic high.

PURPLE HIGH - Original Dutch outdoor variety, strong plant. Almost all plants turn a rich purple, sticky with T.H.C. Very easy to grow, early finish. 100% Indica, unusually fragrant smell. Tastes a little rough, but delivers a clear and sharp high. Specifications: ~ Flower: 6-7 weeks ~ Harvest: mid to late Sept.

PURPLE STAR - Very strong and easy to grow purple variety (100% Indica). Very resinous, having a heavy perfumed aroma. The aroma is a little rough, but the variety produces a very strong high. About 50% of the plants turn purple. Specifications: ~ Flower: 6-7 weeks ~ Harvest: 2nd half of Sept., 1st week of Oct.

PURPLE SKUNK - This variety is a hybrid (F1) of Purple #1 and an early Skunk. About 50% of the plants turn purple during flowering. The variety is 87.5% Sativa and 12.5% Indica. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8-9 weeks ~ Harvest: 1st week of Oct.

ROMBERRY - Is a very vigorous F1 hybrid of the pure Romulan female and a select Blueberry male. The hybrid retained the large sticky and stinky buds of the Romulan. It gained stronger stems and fruity aroma and taste from the Blueberry. Colas should become larger and more frosty than the Romulan buds seen in Aug. 98 High Times. This one is also very easy to clone. Specifications: ~ Flowering: 55-60 days ~ Height: 90-140 cm ~ Ruderalis Indica Flowers automatically Outdoor. Ready 3 1/2 months start to finish. Good for Northern or rough outdoor areas.

SHAMAN - This is the former variety Purple/Skunk. This variety is a hybrid (F1) of Purple #1 and an early Skunk. About 50% of the plants turn purple during flowering. The variety is 87.5% Sativa and 12.5% Indica. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8-9 weeks ~ Harvest: 1st week of Oct.

SENSI SKUNK - A strong plant with that typical Skunky taste and high. It has a high calyx-to-leaf ratio with large, full buds. Its excellent yield makes this one an absolute must for the greenhouse grower.

SHIVA - Pungent Afghan smell with Indica. Short bushy plant. Heavy good quality crop. Best for inside cultivation.

SHIVA SHANTI - This Afghani with its penetrating Indica aroma is one of the better yielders in the collection. Its pleasant taste and above average potency make this an attractive variety for beginners.

SHIVA SKUNK - This cross between Skunk #1 and Northern Lights #5 is a very reliable variety. Excellent hybrid vigour and yield make this one a snap to grow. Works superbly indoors as well as in a greenhouse. Taste and high are similar to Skunk #1, a rich sweet pungency, but with more resin and better yield. High calyx-to-leaf ratio, you can almost throw those scissors away as very little manicuring is required. An absolute must for beginners or experts.

SILVER PEARL - A three way hybrid developed from Early Pearl, Skunk #1 and Northern Lights. This hybrid is quicker and sweeter than Shiva Skunk. Excellent indoor and greenhouse results. Plants exhibit frosted resinous characteristics of the Northern Lights #5 and the sweetness and calyx-to-leaf ratio of Early Pearl/Skunk. One of our favorites and in 1994 the winner of the mixed Indica/Sativa category.

SKUNK #1 - Winner of several harvest festivals, and High Times Cannabis Cup. Skunk #1 (75% Sativa, 25% Indica) was originally a cross between 25% Afghani, 25% Mexican Acapulco Gold and 50% Colombian Gold. Inbred since 1978, now a stabilized homogeneous strain. Blooms with long, thick buds, varying in color from light green to golden. Very high flower to leaf ratio. Soft and sweet aroma and a very strong up high. Excellent variety for indoor growing or greenhouse with darkening system. Very high yields. Easy to manicure. This variety serves as a standard against which others can be measured. Specifications: ~ Flower: 7-11 weeks ~ Harvest: 1st half of Nov. in a greenhouse.

SKUNK PASSION - Skunk is the best known variety to the indoor grower. Skunk Passion is a selection of these seeds. Selection was based on early flowering. It's no use growing these seeds outdoors in Northern climates (see Skunk/Indica). The strong pungent smell is characteristic of this variety. Mean THC levels are high. Sensitive to spider mites, over and underfeeding. Sweet and soft smoke, very high. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8-9 weeks ~ Harvest: 1st half of Oct. in a greenhouse

SKUNK RED HAIR - The variety which made indoor growing possible since 1985. Still one of the growers favorite. Will even taste better outdoors under the right conditions. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8-9 weeks

SMOKEY BEAR - Produced by Dutch Passion, a cross between the famous Masterkush and KC 33. A very nice outdoor plant. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8 weeks ~ Harvest: 3rd week of Sept.

SUPER CHRYSTAL - Super Chrystal is produced by Homegrown Fantaseeds. Super shiva mix. 75% Indica, beautiful and nice plant to grow. Strong oriental taste, heavy stone. Low compact plant. Specifications: ~ Flower: 7-8 weeks

SUPER HAZE - This variety made Dutch Passion the High Times Cannabis Cup winner in 1992. Formerly this strain was called Haze/Skunk. Still one of the best for the Dutch Passion team. Original Haze is a pure Sativa strain. It is crossed with Skunk #1 to get a bigger yield, a softer taste and a shorter flowering period. Truly superior sweet taste. The high is incredibly clear and energetic. A very favorite strain from our collection. Very high yield for an almost 100% Sativa variety. Specifications: ~ Flower: 10-12 weeks ~ Harvest: end of Dec.

SUPER SKUNK - This plant is especially developed for Skunk lovers. Crossed of best Skunks to their Afghani ancestors. Brush against this plant and the room becomes immediately filled with powerful Skunk aroma. Despite the smell a very pleasant high with a little more body to it than the Skunk #1. One of the winners of the 1990 High Times Harvest Festival where it clearly defeated Skunk #1.

SWAZI X SKUNK - 100% Sativa crossbred with a Dutch Skunk. This is a real bargain, slow but well worth the wait. Exotic taste, strong high. Specifications: ~ Flower: 9-14 weeks

THAI - This variety grown in Holland is a pure Sativa, selected for short size and early bloom. Large buds full of resin, with typical Thai flavor and aroma. Very strong and energetic up high. Very high yields, easy to cultivate. Specifications: ~ Flower: 10-14 weeks ~ Harvest: end of Nov.

TRANCE - An upgrade of the former variety Skunk/Indica. With 100% Skunk seeds, it's not possible to grow fully mature outdoor plants because the seeds were selected for growing under artificial lights and greenhouse. Skunk was crossed with an early Indica, to let it mature sooner and to make the plant stronger for outdoor conditions. This is the F1 generation. It has come out as a very nice strain. Specifications: ~ Flower: 7 weeks ~ Harvest: end of Sept., 2nd week of Oct. A beautiful purple variety with high yields and Afghan taste. Heavy buds and high. 100% Indica. Specifications: ~ Flower: 7-8 weeks ~ Harvest: end of Sept., 1st week of Oct.

VOODOO - A green strain, developed from Thai parents in 1997. The Thai parents having grown in Holland for years already. A very strong plant with long thick buds. Has a Thai aroma and a clear, fresh smell. Sativa high, very productive. Specifications: ~ Flower: 7 weeks ~ Harvest: 1st week of Oct.

WHITE CLOUD - This variety has 30% of prize winners, as the rest of its make up is of great quality. A very good variety to select a clone from. Sativa cross, mild taste and Sativa high. Specifications: ~ Flower: 9-12 weeks ~ Harvest: end of Nov.

WHITE RHINO - Somewhat a mystery strain. Suffice to say it has 60% Indica to 40% Sativa ratios expressed with a definite freak in it's family. Specifications: ~ Flower: 10 weeks.

WHITE RUSSIAN - With the combined power of White Widow and AK-47, this potent plant became and an easy winner of Cannabis Cup '96 organic pot award. Select best female for future cloning. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8 weeks

WHITE WIDOW - The most rewarded variety of recent years in Holland. The plants are white with THC glands, even on big parts of the fan leaves. A very soft smoke and great high. Very potent. Specifications: ~ Flower: 8 weeks ~ Harvest: end of Oct.

WHITE WIDOW X NORTHERN LIGHTS #5 - White Widow gives Northern Lights #5 a powerful boost in this strain. Like a Super Beetle with a Porsche engine, this Indica will pack a lot of power. Specifications: ~ Flower: 55-60 days ~ Height: 3-4'

Nutrient troubleshooting

Nutrient Disorders

George Van Pattens on Nutrients Nutrient disorders are caused by too much or too little of one or several nutrients being available. These nutrients are made available between a pH range of 5 and 7 and a total dissolved solids (TDS) range of 800 to 3000 PPM. Maintaining these conditions is the key to proper nutrient uptake.
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Nutrients

Over twenty elements are needed for a plant to grow. Carbon, hydrogen and oxygen are absorbed from the air and water. The rest of the elements, called mineral nutrients, are dissolved in the nutrient solution. The primary or macro- nutrients (nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K)) are the elements plants use the most. Calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) are secondary nutrients and used in smaller amounts. Iron (Fe), sulfur (S), manganese (Mn), boron (B), molybdenum (Mo), zinc (Zn) and copper (Cu) are micro-nutrients or trace elements. Trace elements are found in most soils. Rockwool (hydroponic) fertilizers must contain these trace elements, as they do not normally exist in sufficient quantities in rockwool or water. Other elements also play a part in plant growth. Aluminum, chlorine, cobalt, iodine, selenium, silicon, sodium and vanadium are not normally included in nutrient mixes. They are required in very minute amounts that are usually present as impurities in the water supply or mixed along with other nutrients.

* NOTE: The nutrients must be soluble (able to be dissolved in water) and go into solution.

Macro-nutrients

Nitrogen (N) is primary to plant growth. Plants convert nitrogen to make proteins essential to new cell growth. Nitrogen is mainly responsible for leaf and stem growth as well as overall size and vigor. Nitrogen moves easily to active young buds, shoots and leaves and slower to older leaves. Deficiency signs show first in older leaves. They turn a pale yellow and may die. New growth becomes weak and spindly. An abundance of nitrogen will cause soft, weak growth and even delay flower and fruit production if it is allowed to accumulate.

Phosphorus (P) is necessary for photosynthesis and works as a catalyst for energy transfer within the plant. Phosphorus helps build strong roots and is vital for flower and seed production. Highest levels of phosphorus are used during germination, seedling growth and flowering. Deficiencies will show in older leaves first. Leaves turn deep green on a uniformly smaller, stunted plant. Leaves show brown or purple spots. NOTE: Phosphorus flocculates when concentrated and combined with calcium.

Potassium (K) activates the manufacture and movement of sugars and starches, as well as growth by cell division. Potassium increases chlorophyll in foliage and helps regulate stomata openings so plants make better use of light and air. Potassium encourages strong root growth, water uptake and triggers enzymes that fight disease. Potassium is necessary during all stages of growth. It is especially important in the development of fruit. Deficiency signs of potassium are: plants are the tallest and appear healthy. Older leaves mottle and yellow between veins, followed by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die. Flower and fruit drop are common problems associated with potassium deficiency. Potassium is usually locked out by high salinity.

Secondary Nutrients

Magnesium (Mg) is found as a central atom in the chlorophyll molecule and is essential to the absorption of light energy. Magnesium aids in the utilization of nutrients, neutralizes acids and toxic compounds produced by the plant. Deficiency signs of magnesium are: Older leaves yellow from the center outward, while veins remain green on deficient plants. Leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. Growing tips turn lime green if the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant.

Calcium (Ca) is fundamental to cell manufacture and growth. Soil gardeners use dolomite lime, which contains calcium and magnesium, to keep the soil sweet or buffered. Rockwool gardeners use calcium to buffer excess nutrients. Calcium moves slowly within the plant and tends to concentrate in roots and older growth. Consequently young growth shows deficiency signs first. Deficient leaf tips, edges and new growth will turn brown and die back. If too much calcium is applied early in life, it will stunt growth as well. It will also flocculate when a concentrated form is combined with potassium.

Trace Elements

Sulphur (S) is a component of plant proteins and plays a role in root growth and chlorophyll supply. Distributed relatively evenly with largest amounts in leaves which affects the flavor and odor in many plants. Sulphur, like calcium, moves little within plant tissue and the first signs of a deficiency are pale young leaves. Growth is slow but leaves tend to get brittle and stay narrower than normal.

Iron (Fe) is a key catalyst in chlorophyll production and is used in photosynthesis. A lack of iron turns leaves pale yellow or white while the veins remain green. Iron is difficult for plants to absorb and moves slowly within the plant. Always use chelated (immediately available to the plant) iron in nutrient mixes.

Manganese (Mg) works with plant enzymes to reduce nitrates before producing proteins. A lack of manganese turns young leaves a mottled yellow or brown.

Zinc (Z) is a catalyst and must be present in minute amounts for plant growth. A lack of zinc results in stunting, yellowing and curling of small leaves. An excess of zinc is uncommon but very toxic and causes wilting or death.

Copper (C) is a catalyst for several enzymes. A shortage of copper makes new growth wilt and causes irregular growth. Excesses of copper causes sudden death. Copper is also used as a fungicide and wards off insects and diseases because of this property.

Boron (B) is necessary for cells to divide and protein formation. It also plays an active role in pollination and seed production.

Molybdenum (Mn) helps form proteins and aids the plant's ability to fix nitrogen from the air. A deficiency causes leaves to turn pale and fringes to appear scorched. Irregular leaf growth may also result.

These nutrients are mixed together to form a complete plant fertilizer. The mix contains all the nutrients in the proper ratios to give plants all they need for lush, rapid growth. The fertilizer is dissolved in water to make a nutrient solution. Water transports these soluble nutrients into contact with the plant roots. In the presence of oxygen and water, the nutrients are absorbed through the root hairs.

Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes.

1 If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.

2 Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. Nitrogen (N) deficiency. If not, go to #3.

3 Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. If not, go to #4.

4 Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. If not, keep reading…

5 Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorous (P) deficiency. If not, go to #6.

6 Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. If not, go to #7.

7 Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). If not, go to #8…

8 The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). If not, go to #9.

9 Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. If not, go to #10...

10 Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. If not, #11.

11 Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. If not, #12.

12 Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. If not, #13.

13 Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. If not… You may just have a weak plant.

Solutions to Nutrient Deficiencies

The Nutrients:

Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor. Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients. Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather. Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency. Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency. Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn. Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients- lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.

Check Your Water

Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up.

General Feeding Tips

Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N:P:K ratio of about 10:7:8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20:14:16), and for flowering plants, 4:8:8. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for TDS levels is as follows: seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants = 900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison. PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1) . Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7. 0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it.

Other Things…

Cold

Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could.

Heat

If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2.

Humidity

Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine.

Mold and fungus

Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean.

Insects

White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites underneath.

Sprays

Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions.

Insufficient light

Tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight.

Clones

yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.

Lighting principles

Energy Efficient Lighting

The quantity and quality of LIGHT around us determine how well we see and work. Light affects our health, safety, morale, comfort, and productivity.Lighting also directly affects our economy. In general, We spend about one-third of our (electricity) budget on lighting. Technologies developed during the past 10 years can help us cut lighting costs 30% to 60% while enhancing lighting quality and reducing environmental impacts.
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Lighting Principles and Terms

Illumination

A lumen is a measurement of light output from a lamp, often called a tube or a bulb. All lamps are rated in lumens. For example, a 100-watt incandescent lamp produces about 1750 lumens. It is printed on the lamp. The distribution of light on a horizontal surface is called its illumination. Illumination is measured in footcandles or lux. A footcandle of illumination is a lumen of light distributed over a 1-square-foot (0.09-square-meter) area. A lux of illumination is a lumen of light distributed over 1-square-meter area. The amount of illumination required varies according to the difficulty of a visual task. The Illuminating Engineering Society says that illumination of 30 to 50 footcandles is adequate for most home and office work. Difficult and lengthy visual tasks.like sewing for extended periods of time.require 200 to 500 footcandles. Where no seeing tasks (i.e., tasks whose speed and accuracy of completion are affected by quality and quantity of light) are performed, lighting systems need to provide only security, safety, or visual comfort.requiring from 5 to 20 footcandles of illumination. Another lighting term you will hear is efficacy. This is the ratio of light output from a lamp to the electric power it consumes and is measured in lumens per watt. It indicates the efficiency of the light.

Light Quality

Light quality describes how well people in a lighted space can see to do visual tasks and how visually comfortable they feel in that space. Light quality is important to energy efficiency because spaces with higher quality lighting need less illumination. High-quality lighting is fairly uniform in brightness and has no glare. For example, direct intense sunlight streaming through the windows of a room with chocolate brown carpets and dark wall paneling will likely give too much contrast in brightness. On the other hand, in a pale-colored room bathed in soft light, you can hardly tell where the light is coming from because no one area of the room appears much brighter than another. The walls, ceiling, floor, and work surfaces are relatively the same light hue.

Glare

Eliminating glare (i.e., excessive brightness from a direct light source) is essential to achieving good lighting quality. Suitable shades, fittings shall be used.

Light Color and Color Rendering

Lamps are assigned a color temperature (according to the Kelvin temperature scale) based on their "coolness" or "warmness." The human eye perceives colors as cool if they are at the blue-green end of the color spectrum, and warm if they are at the red end of the spectrum.Cool light is preferred for visual tasks because it produces higher contrast than warm light. Contrast is the brightness difference between different parts of the visual field, which is the expanse of space you can see at a given instant without moving your eyes. Warm light is preferred for living spaces because it is more flattering to skin tones and clothing (especially in cold countries- and not in southern states of India).Keep in mind, though, that artificial light sources vary widely in their color rendering indexes (CRI). The CRI is a measurement of a light source's ability to render colors the same as sunlight does. For example, incandescent lamps are rated at a CRI of 100.nearly equal to sunlight.while some high-pressure sodium lamps have a CRI of 22, which means they render colors very poorly.

Types of Lighting

There are four basic types of lighting: incandescent, fluorescent, high-intensity discharge, and low-pressure sodium.

Incandescent ( in general our bulbs)

Incandescent lamps are the least expensive to buy but the most expensive to operate. Incandescent light is produced by a tiny coil of tungsten filament that glows when it is heated by an electrical current. Incandescent lamps have the shortest lives ( 500-1000 operating hours) of the common lighting types. They are also relatively inefficient compared with other lighting types.

Tungsten halogen

This newer type of incandescent lighting achieves better energy efficiency than the standard A-type bulb. It has a gas filling and an inner coating that reflect heat. Together, the filling and coating recycle heat to keep the filament hot with less electricity. These lamps are considerably more expensive than standard incandescents and are primarily used in commercial applications: theater, store, and outdoor lighting systems.

Reflector lamps

Reflector lamps (Type R) are designed to spread light over specific areas. They are used mainly indoors for stage/theater and store applications, as well as floodlighting, spotlighting, and downlighting.

Fluorescent ( common Tube lights and CFL)

The light produced by a fluorescent tube is caused by an electric current conducted through mercury and inert gases. Fluorescent lighting is used mainly indoors and is about 3 to 4 times as efficient as incandescent lighting. Fluorescent lamps last about 10 times longer than incandescents. But, to gain the most efficiency, you should install fluorescents in places where they will be on for several hours at a time.Fluorescent lights need ballasts (i.e., devices that control the electricity used by the unit) for starting and circuit protection. Ballasts consume energy. You can increase the energy savings for existing fluorescent lighting by relamping (e.g., replacing an existing lamp with one of a lower wattage), replacing ballasts, and replacing fixtures with more efficient models.

Tube fluorescent

The two most common types are 40-watt, 4-foot (1.2-meter) lamps and 75-watt, 8-foot (2. 4-meter) lamps. Tubular fluorescent fixtures and lamps are preferred for ambient lighting in large indoor areas because their low brightness creates less direct glare than do incandescent bulbs.

Compact fluorescent

Compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs) are the most significant lighting advance developed for homes in recent years. They combine the efficiency of fluorescent lighting with the convenience and popularity of incandescent fixtures. CFLs can replace incandescents that are roughly 3 to 4 times their wattage, saving up to 75% of the initial lighting energy. Although CFLs cost from 10 to 20 times more than comparable incandescent bulbs, they last 10 to 15 times as long. This energy savings and superior longevity make CFLs are one of the best energy efficiency investments available.

High-Intensity Discharge

High-intensity discharge (HID) lamps provide the highest efficacy and longest service life of any lighting type. They are commonly used for outdoor lighting and in large indoor arenas. HID lamps use an electric arc to produce intense light. They also require ballasts, and they take a few seconds to produce light when first turned on because the ballast needs time to establish the electric arc. The three most common types of HID lamps are mercury vapor, metal halide, and high-pressure sodium. HID lamps and fixtures can save 75% to 90% of lighting energy when they replace incandescent lamps and fixtures. Significant energy savings are also possible by replacing old mercury vapor lamps with newer metal halide or high-pressure sodium lamps. Mercury vapor.the oldest type of HID lighting.is used primarily for street lighting. Mercury vapor lamps provide about 50 lumens per watt. They cast a very cool blue/green white light. Most indoor mercury vapor lighting in arenas and gymnasiums has been replaced by metal halide lighting, which has better color rendering and efficiency. Metal halide lamps are similar in construction and appearance to mercury vapor lamps. The addition of metal halide gases to mercury gas within the lamp results in higher light output, more lumens per watt, and better color rendition than from mercury gas alone. Metal halide lamps are used to light large indoor areas such as gymnasiums and sports arenas, and for outdoor areas such as car lots or anywhere that color rendition is important. High-pressure sodium lighting is becoming the most common type of outdoor lighting. It provides 90 to 150 lumens per watt.an efficiency exceeded only by low-pressure sodium lighting. High-pressure sodium lamps are also reliable and have long service lives. Their color is a warm white, and their color rendition ranges from poor to fairly good depending on design and intended use.

Low-Pressure Sodium

Low-pressure sodium lamps work somewhat like fluorescent lamps. They are the most efficient artificial lighting, have the longest service life, and maintain their light output better than any other lamp type. Low-pressure sodium lighting is used where color is not important because it renders all colors as tones of yellow or gray. Typical applications include highway and security lighting.

Energy Efficiency with Lighting

In a typical residential or commercial lighting installation, 50% or more of the energy is wasted by obsolete equipment, inadequate maintenance, or inefficient use. Saving lighting energy requires either reducing electricity consumed by the light source or reducing the length of time the light source is on.

"Relamping" means substituting one lamp for another to save energy. You can decide to make illumination higher or lower when relamping. But be sure that the new lamp's lumen output fits the tasks performed in the space and conforms to the fixture's specifications.

Relamping incandescent fixtures

Example, for energy savings of 60% to 75%, many incandescent lamps can be replaced by CFLs. In general , a 60 W bulb can be replaced with 11 W CFL. In selecting CFL: Take from an accepted dealer or shop, commonly known make in India, integral Ballast (choke) is better, if pin type, select 4 pin type. BIS mark in choke is a mark of approval for the choke. Electronic ballast consumes 2-4 W while electro-magnetic choke takes 6-10 W. If electronic ballast , check the symbol (H) which indicates low harmonic distortion.

Relamping fluorescent fixtures

Common 40-watt and 75-watt lamps can be replaced with energy-saving lamps of 34 watts and 60 watts, respectively. Energy-saving lamps for less-common fluorescent fixtures are (26 W retrofit) also available. If you need to replace the ballasts in your fluorescent fixtures, consider using one of the improved varieties. The new electromagnetic ballasts reduce ballast losses, fixture temperature, and system wattage. Because they operate at cooler temperatures, they last longer than standard electromagnetic ballasts. Electronic ballasts operate at a very high frequency that eliminates flickering and noise. They are even more efficient than improved electromagnetic ballasts. Some electronic ballasts even allow you to operate the fluorescent lamp on a dimmer switch, which usually is not recommended with most fluorescents. Check the symbol (H) which indicates low harmonic distortion

Improving Lighting Controls

Lighting controls are devices for turning lights on and off or for dimming them. The simplest type is a standard snap switch. Other controls are photocells, timers, occupancy sensors, and dimmers.

· Snap switches, located in numerous convenient areas, make it easier for people in large, shared spaces to turn off lights in unused areas.
· Photocells turn lights on and off in response to natural light levels. Photo-cells switch outdoor lights on at dusk and off at dawn, for example. Advanced designs gradually raise and lower fluorescent light levels with changing daylight levels.
· Mechanical or electronic time clocks automatically turn on and off indoor or outdoor lights for security, safety, and tasks such as janitorial work.
· Crank timers, which are spring-driven and similar to old oven timers, limit lights to short durations where the need for light is brief.
· Occupancy sensors activate lights when a person is in the area and then turn off the lights after the person has left. They are popular for areas used infrequently, such as warehouses. They also offer security advantages over continuous lighting: when lights suddenly come on, they startle intruders and alert residents and neighbors to motion in the area.
· Dimmers reduce the wattage and output of incandescent and fluorescent lamps. Dimmers also increase the service life of incandescent lamps significantly. However, dimming incandescent lamps reduces their lumen output more than their wattage. This makes incandescent lamps less efficient as they are dimmed. Dimming fluorescents requires special dimming ballasts and lamp holders, but does not reduce their efficiency.

Daylighting

Daylighting means using daylight for indoor lighting. Modern buildings designed for daylighting typically use 40% to 60% less electricity for lighting needs than do conventional buildings. Sunlight and daylight are free and readily accessible.( During a sunny day at noon, light levels at different places- open lawn- 30000 lux or above, a class room with windows open - 400 lux, with windows closed- 160 lux. With 4 tube lights ON in the night-100 lux.

POLLUTION from Fluorescent Lamps

All fluorescent lights contain small amounts of mercury, and short-lived radioactive material. Because of these hazardous materials, you should not dump burned-out lamps into the yard. Mercury, antimony, chromium, lead all will ooze out into the drinking water-well,river,pond etc. which is dangerous. Dispose of them with other household hazardous wastes such as batteries, solvents, and paints at your community's designated drop-off point for proper disposal by the panchayat or corporation Light from fluorescent lamps without proper radiation shield contain a very small % of UV rays harm full to eyes. Do not use Tubes/CFL without proper shields.

Lighting Maintenance

Maintenance is vital to lighting efficiency. Light levels decrease over time because of aging lamps and dirt on fixtures, lamps, and room surfaces. Together, these factors can reduce total illumination by 50% or more, while lights continue drawing full power. The following basic maintenance suggestions can help prevent this.

· Clean fixtures, lamps, and lenses every 6 to 24 months by wiping off the dust. However, never clean an incandescent bulb while it is turned on. The water's cooling effect will shatter the hot bulb.
· Replace lenses if they appear yellow.
· Clean or repaint small rooms every year and larger rooms every 2 to 3 years. Dirt collects on surfaces, which reduces the amount of light they reflect.
· Consider group relamping. Common lamps, especially incandescent and fluorescent lamps, lose 20% to 30% of their light output over their service life. Many lighting experts recommend replacing all the lamps in a lighting system at once. This saves labor, keeps illumination high, and avoids stressing any ballasts with dying lamps.

How to grow

How to grow marijuana

by Dr. Clone

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This is one method of growing marijuana indoors. It is based on growing with soil using metal halide lighting. You would probably get the same results using the same wattage of high pressure sodium lights. So you've decided to grow pot, but you don't have the money to buy several 1,000 watt halide lamps, and, unless you steal power (not a good idea, legal wise) four 1,000 watt halides will cost $256 every two months in British Columbia. That's a bit unwise, if your previous electric bill from BC Hydro (ponic) was $50 for two months. Then there is the large problem of massive amounts of heat, humidity and smell. And you might be concerned with all this equipment and activity and its association with a legal problem described as manufacturing or cultivating with the intent to distribute or some such charge. A simple way to solve this dilemma is to use one or two 400 watt halides. Some growers will tell you that this is way too little or you won't get anything worth while out of that wattage. I say hogwash to them. A 400 watt bulb will not give as much light as a 1,000 watt set-up, but the bulbs are cooler, last 2 to 3 times longer, and the spectrum is the same as 1,000 watt. You can flower six large plants (about 2' tall at the start of the 12/12 cycle), but the 2' tall plant will not flower as profusely as a one foot tall plant, nor will all of the light reach the back of the plant. So all in all, stick with a height of ONE FOOT high. This will allow you to flower 12 plants per 400 watt bulb. Place SIX plants ON tomato juice cans, coffee cans, etc., in a circle around the bulb, about one foot away from the bulb. There will be large spaces below for the other six to sit in. Each plant will yield around half to three quarters of an ounce of buds. If you have an exceptional variety (Big Bud, for example), seven or eight ounces per bulb can be grown, but you should be able to harvest 3 to 4 ounces (minimum) every 60 days (plus or minus one week, depending on variety). Let's start with your house. If your landlord lives upstairs, don't do it! If the landlord visits unannounced, don't do it. A bedroom with a closet works best. The closet should be a minimum 50 inches wide for 4-foot fluorescent fixtures. This will be your vegetative CLONE room. Keep this room open while the metal halide(s) are on. With a 400 watt system, you will not need to rewire unless you live in an old house with fuses. Your Grow Room White plastic is to be used in both the closet and a corner of your grow room. Since you want to contain as much light from the halide(s), it will be necessary to put a corner post where two walls (do not now exist) will meet. Put plants on an old table. In your veg/clone closet, hang one fixture above the upper shelf (one foot) and suspend the other fixture from clothes rod (make it adjustable -with chain).

Soil & Pots

I prefer one gallon nursery pots. For a good soil less mix, I use 50% peat, 50% perlite. To the dry mix add one tablespoon of fine dolomite lime and three tablespoons of bat guano per gallon (OF WHAT?). Mix well. Use a dust mask. Add water. Next, get a book like Marijuana Growers Handbook by Ed Rosenthal, as you need a reference book, no matter what. See the list of books at the bottom of this page and decide which is best for your needs.

Seeds vs. Clones

No question about it. Clones are best. If you start from seeds, it will be 5 - 6 months before you harvest. If you obtain clones, three months at most. If you have started your plants via seeds, keep them under fluorescent light until 6 to 8 inches tall. Transplant and put in the bulb area, two feet from bulb. In four to five weeks these plants will be anywhere from 10 - 36 tall, depending on variety and sex. At this point, take two clones off of each plant (long, lower branches are best.) To determine the sex of the plants, place a black, air-permeable piece of paper over one shoot of each plant. Within 7 days they will manifest sex characteristics on those shoots. Male plants (see your Handbook for pictures) -out! Or put all clones at this point in a closet with lights on a 12 hour on-12 hours off cycle. 8 - 14 days later, your clones will have male or female characteristics. Unless you want seedy pot (or seeds), kill all male plants. Put closet timer at 18 hours on/6 off as soon as sex identification is made. If you can, take two more clones off of each female and put in closet. Turn bulb timer to a 12/12 cycle and wait for your buds to start flowering. But, if you get clones from female plants, you won't have to do this. Just transplant immediately and put under bulb at 18/6 for one month. Take two clones from each plant and now turn closet lights to 18/6 and turn open area bulb to 12/12 (these plants will mature faster too). You won't need a fan in the closet. You will need an oscillating fan in the halide bulb grow area, blowing at the bulb. Also, a fan in the doorway will force hot air out of the grow area (an ugly box fan works fine).

Watering

Pot prefers a dry medium. Always. Don't keep plants saturated. Empty trays after watering, to keep humidity low. Low humidity will promote shorter, bushier plants. Water temperature should be about 70 degrees F. Never use hot tap water. It will kill your plants. Fill your pail with water & heat some on the stove to bring temperature up. PH factor will not be a problem if you have used fine dolomite lime. Fertilizer should be applied at half strength of what is recommended on jar or container, ONLY every third watering.

When To Harvest

The question of when to harvest tenderly cared-for plants is a question that puzzles many new growers. Most farmers' goal is to pluck the fruit at the exact moment when the potency of the bud is at is peak. Realistically, the skills needed to detect the specific day (or even hour) when a plant is at its peak can only be acquired through years of experience. However, even the novice grower should be able detect the window of time during which the harvest results in premier crop of outstanding bud. 0) Maturity and THC Although some growers are interested in fiber content, most people consider the plant to be mature when the percentage of THC found in the plant reaches its maximum. It is not practical for the average grower to actually measure THC in a plant, as the chemistry is somewhat complex. In a growing plant, each successive pair of leaves contains more THC than the previous pair. The budding tips of the plant contain the most THC of all. Both male and female plants contain THC. In fact, some research has shown that in the early stages of growth the males actually contain more THC than the females. From The Marijuana Growers Guide. Even conniseurs believe it is worth cutting and sampling shoots before the THC has reached its maximum. Clarke suggests that the best test for pot is to roll joints of several different strains, invite all your friends over, and see which pile of joints disappears first (Marijuana Botany, p. 94)

1) Plant Size

The size of the plant has little to do with its maturity. Outdoors, a plant might reach a height of over eight feet (2.5m) and still not be ready for harvest. Indoors, mature, budding plants can be under 18 (.5m) high.

2) Photoperiod

The Key to Maturation The chronological age of the plant has little to do with its maturity. How quickly a plant matures is mostly dependent on the amount of light the plant receives each day (photoperiod). Typically, a plant will transition from the growing (vegetative) stage to the budding stage when the light per day drops below 12 hours. This is not to say that a 3-week-old seedling will begin to bloom when the light is cut. As a general rule, a plant must be a minimum of 60 days old before it is mature enough to respond appropriately to decreased light. For indoor growers, the decision on when to cut the photoperiod depends on available growing space, as well as the need to harvest weed. Some growers report that clones (cuttings) can be forced to bloom prior to 60 days old, perhaps since the cutting itself is somewhat mature at the time it is rooted.

3) Male Versus Female Almost always, male flowers will show prior to female buds. Thus, once the males in the garden are detected, you can be sure that the female budding process will start soon - usually within 1-2 weeks.

4) Different Varieties Many gardeners report that certain cannabis varieties take longer to mature than others. In particular, the narrow-leafed Sativas are said to take significantly longer to initiate and complete budding, as compared to the wide-leafed Indicas. Under some conditions, Sativas will require an additional month or more to mature after the Indicas have been harvested.

5) Time of Year Obviously, indoor growers cannot use the seasons as a guide to harvesting (though a cold winter-time grow room can significantly retard the growth of the plants). Outdoor growers on the other hand can use the seasons as a predictor of the ideal harvest time. In the Fall, once the length of day drops below 12 hours, the count-down to harvest will be begin. Weather conditions will affect the exact harvest day from year to year, but generally you can expect to harvest within the same two-week window each year. If you can avoid it, don't harvest during or immediately after a rainy spell.

6) Monitoring Buds The best way to tell if the plant is ready is to examine the bud. In the paragraphs below, the terms pistal and stigma refer to the white hairs in the center of the female bud. The term calyx refers to the pod that would surround the seed (were the plant to be fertilized). Many growers elect to pick each bud individually, as it reaches it prime. Buds are at their peak potency about one week after flower formation slows...Harvest the plants when about half the stigmas in the buds have withered... When the plants are left in the ground, the resinous qualities of the plant may become more apparent. The bracts and tiny leaves may swell in size...The resin content of these buds may be higher, [but] the grass will smoke more harshly than if the buds were younger when picked. From The Marijuana Growers Guide. In the primordial calyxes the pistils have turned brown; however, all but the oldest of the flowers are fertile and the floral clusters are white...Many cultivators prefer to pick some of their strains during this stage in order to produce marijuana with a clear cerebral, psychoactive effect. From Marijuana Botany. Eventually the pistils start to turn color from pale white to red or brown...When the glands have swelled and the pistil has receded into the false pod, the bud is ready to pick. From Closet Cultivator At the peak of florescence, all but the oldest of flowers have white pistil development...Another indicator is bouquet. When a plant is at the peak of florescence, it has a sweet and musky fragrance. Later, it loses the sweetness. From Sinsemilla Technique The best way to harvest is to examine the resin glands on each bud. As they turn from clear to amber, that is the optimum time to pick. Buds usually mature from the top down, if grown under artificial light, and you will end up with more high-quality pot if you pick each bud when ready. However, the plant will not just continue to produces buds at the same rate. Like any other plant, the flowering cycle lasts a specific period of time. If you wanted a further harvest of buds, the plant would need a second cycle of vegetative growth. This can be achieved indoors by simply turning the lights back up to a 24 hour cycle for a few weeks. Outdoors though, you are dependent on the seasons. Frost and long nights will usually kill the plant. Of course, such a strategy is only viable if growing a few plants. If your operation runs on an industrial scale, just drive the combine harvester through the field.